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Understanding Debts

Bankruptcy gives you a handle on your debts. There are different kinds of debts. It helps if you have a handle on these differences.

 

Debts in Bankruptcy

If you are thinking about bankruptcy there’s no more basic question than what it will do to each of your debts. Will it wipe away all your debts or will you still owe anybody? What about debts you would like to keep like your car or truck loan or your home mortgage? What help does bankruptcy give for unusual debts like taxes, or child and spousal support?

The Three Categories of Debts

At the heart of bankruptcy is the basic rule of treating all creditors within the same legal category the same. So we need to understand the three main categories of debts. You may not have debts in all three of these categories, but lots of people do. A basic understanding of these three categories will help make sense of bankruptcy, and make sense of how it treats each of your creditors.

The three categories of debts are “secured,” “general unsecured,” and “priority.”   

Secured Debts

Every single debt is either “secured” by something you own or it is not. A secured debt is secured by a lien—a legal right against—that property or possession you own.  

Most of the time you know whether or not a debt is secured because you voluntarily gave collateral to secure the debt. When you buy a car, you know that you are signing on to a vehicle loan in which the lender is put onto your car’s title as its lienholder. That lien on the title gives that lender certain rights, such as to repossess it if you don’t make the agreed payments.

But debts can also be secured as a matter of law without you voluntarily agreeing to it. For example, if you own a home and an unsecured creditor sues you and gets a judgment against you that usually creates a judgment lien against the title of your home. Or if you don’t pay federal income taxes you owe, the IRS may put a tax lien on all your personal property.

For a debt to become effectively secured, either voluntarily or involuntarily, certain steps have to be taken to accomplish that. Otherwise the debt is not secured, and the creditor does not have rights against the property or possession that was supposed to secure the debt.

In the case of a vehicle loan, the lender and you have to go through certain paperwork for the lender to become a lienholder on the vehicle’s title. If those aren’t done right, the vehicle will not attach as collateral to the loan. That could totally change how that debt is treated in bankruptcy.

Finally, it’s important to see that debts can be fully secured or only partly secured. This depends on the amount of the debt compared to the value of the collateral securing it. If you owe $15,000 on a vehicle worth only $10,000, the debt is only partly secured—secured as to $10,000, and unsecured as to the remaining $5,000 of the debt. A partly secured debt may be treated differently in bankruptcy than a fully secured one.

General Unsecured Debts

All debts that are not legally secured by collateral are called unsecured debt.  And “general” unsecured debts are simply those which are not one of special “priority” debts that the law has selected for special treatment. (See below.) So this category of “general unsecured debts” includes all debts with are both not secured and not “priority.”

General unsecured debts include every imaginable type of debt or claim. The most common ones include most credit cards, virtually all medical bills, personal loans without collateral, checking accounts with a negative balance, unpaid checks, payday loans without collateral, the amount left owing after a vehicle is repossessed and sold, and uninsured or underinsured vehicle accident claims against you.

It helps to know that sometimes a debt which had been secured can turn into a general unsecured one. For example, a second mortgage that was fully secured by the value of the home at the time of the loan can become partially or fully unsecured if the home’s value falls. Or a general unsecured debt can turn into a secured one. For example, a general unsecured credit card debt can become secured debt if a lawsuit is filed against you, a judgment is entered, and a judgment lien is recorded against your real estate.

Priority Debts

As the word implies, “priority” debts are ones that Congress has decided should be treated better than general unsecured debts.

Also, there’s a strict order of priority among the priority debts. Certain “priority” debts get paid ahead of the others (and ahead of all the general unsecured debts). In bankruptcy getting paid first often means getting paid something instead of nothing at all.

This has the following practical consequences in the two main kind of consumer bankruptcy:  

In most Chapter 7 cases there is no “liquidation” of your assets for distribution to your creditors. That’s because in the vast majority of cases, all the debtors’ assets are protected; they are “exempt.” But in those cases where there ARE non-exempt assets which the bankruptcy trustee gathers and sells, priority debts are paid in full by the trustee before the general unsecured ones receive anything. And among the priority debts those of higher priority are paid in full before the lower priority ones receive anything.

In a Chapter 13 case, your proposed payment plan must demonstrate how you will pay all priority debts in full within the 3 to 5 years of your case. Then after the bankruptcy judge approves your plan, you must in fact pay them before you can complete the case (and discharge all or most of your general unsecured creditors). There is more flexibility about when the priority debts are paid with those 3 to 5 years.

Here are the most common priority debts for consumers or small business owners, from higher to lower priority:

  • child and spousal support—the full amount owed as of the filing of the bankruptcy case
  • wages and other forms of compensation owed by the debtor to any of his or her employees—maximum of $12,475 per employee, for work done in the final 180 days before the bankruptcy filing or close of business, whichever was first
  • certain income taxes, and some other kinds of taxes—some are priority but others are general unsecured if they are old enough and meet some other conditions

The next blog posts will discuss how debts in these three categories are treated in Chapter 7 and Chapter 13. 

 

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Keeping a Vehicle with a Debt under Chapter 7 “Straight Bankruptcy”

If you owe a debt on a vehicle, Chapter 7 gives you a narrow choice: keep it and pay on the contract, or surrender it and owe nothing.

 

The Bankruptcy Trustee Only Cares about Equity Beyond Any Exemption

In a Chapter 7 case you have two people besides you who could be interested in your vehicle. The bankruptcy trustee could care about any equity you have in the vehicle (the value over the amount you owe on it), but only if that amount is more than what would be protected under the vehicle exemption. There is seldom too much equity if you owe on a vehicle, but check with your attorney to make sure this is not an issue in your case.

Surrendering a Vehicle to the Lender

You may not want to keep your vehicle because you simply cannot afford to keep making the payments or doing so is just not worthwhile considering your alternatives. Or you may be a couple payments behind, and filed your Chapter 7 case quickly to stop your vehicle from being repossessed, but now realize that hanging on to the vehicle is not feasible for you.

You likely know that if you just surrendered your vehicle without a bankruptcy, you’ll very likely owe and be sued for the “deficiency balance” (the amount you would owe after your vehicle is sold, its sale price is credited to your account, and all the repo and other costs are added). That deficiency balance is often much higher than you expect. The Chapter 7 bankruptcy will almost always write off that deficiency balance. Indeed, that is a common purpose for filing bankruptcy.

Keeping Your Vehicle

 If you want to keep your vehicle, generally you must be either current on your loan or able to get current within about 30 to 60 days after filing the Chapter 7 case. You will almost for sure be required to sign a reaffirmation agreement, which legally excludes the vehicle loan from the discharge (the legal write-off) of the rest of your debts. You have to sign that reaffirmation agreement and have it filed at the bankruptcy court within a short period of time—usually within 60 days after your bankruptcy hearing, meaning you have to be current usually a few weeks before that. Then you have to stay current if you want to keep the car, just as if you had not filed a bankruptcy. And also just as if you had not filed bankruptcy, if that vehicle later gets repossessed or surrendered, there is a good chance that you would owe a deficiency balance. So talk to your attorney and think carefully about the risks before reaffirming your vehicle loan.

The Lack of Other Alternative Usually

Almost always—especially with conventional, national vehicle loan creditors—you are stuck with the terms of your original loan contract if you want to keep your vehicle. You can’t reduce the balance of the loan, the interest rate, or the monthly payment. If you’re behind, almost always you must pay the arrearage and be current within a month or two. There can be exceptions, especially with local finance companies and such who would rather minimize their losses by being flexible. So be sure to ask your attorney whether your vehicle creditor has such as history. And if you do need more flexibility—if you must keep your vehicle, and owe more than it is worth, and you can’t afford the payments—ask about Chapter 13 as a possible better solution.

Conclusion

Usually “straight bankruptcy”—Chapter 7—is the best way to go if your vehicle situation is pretty straightforward: you either want to surrender a vehicle, or else you want to hang onto it and are current or can get current within a month or two of your bankruptcy filing.

 

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Qualify for a Vehicle Loan “Cramdown” by Filing Your Chapter 13 Case at the Right Time

Potentially save thousands of dollars on your vehicle loan by filing bankruptcy when it qualifies for cramdown.


This is the final one of a series of four blog posts on the advantages of filing bankruptcy at the legally opportune time. The last three blogs covered the effect of timing on whether you file a Chapter 7 or Chapter 13 case, on which debts can be discharged, and on what assets you can keep. Today’s applies only to Chapter 13 “adjustment of debts” cases, because vehicle loan cramdowns cannot be done under Chapter 7 “straight bankruptcy.”

Chapter 13 Vehicle Loan Cramdown

What’s a “cramdown”? It’s an informal term—not found in the federal Bankruptcy Code—for a procedure provided under Chapter 13 law for legally rewriting the loan to reduce, usually, both the monthly payment and the total you pay for the vehicle. A cramdown, essentially reduces the amount you must pay to the fair market value of your vehicle, often also reducing the interest rate, and also often stretching out the payments over a longer period. These combine to result often in a significantly reduced monthly payment, and an overall savings of thousands of dollars.

Qualifying for Cramdown

First, this only works if your vehicle is worth less than the balance on the loan.

Second, emphasizing again, it is ONLY available in a Chapter 13 case, not Chapter 7.

And third, your vehicle loan must have been entered into more than 910 days (slightly less than two and a half years) before your Chapter 13 case is filed.

Vehicle Cramdown

It’s of course that last condition that creates the timing opportunity. When you first go in to see your attorney, bring your loan vehicle paperwork (or as much information you have) to see if and when you qualify for cramdown, and whether and how much difference it can make for you.

Here’s an example of the dollar difference that a difference in timing can make.

How Good Timing Can Work for You

Let’s say you bought and financed your car 900 days ago—that’s almost two and a half years. The new car cost $21,500. You did not get a very good deal; your previous car had died and cost way too much to repaid, and you had to quickly get another car to commute to work. You put down $500 (from a credit card cash advance), then financed the vehicle for $21,000 at 8% over a term of 5 years, with monthly payments of $425.

Now almost two and a half years later you owe about $11,500. If you wanted to keep the car, and filed either a Chapter 7 or Chapter 13 case before the 910-day mark, you would have to pay the regular monthly payments for the rest of the contract term. With interest, that would cost a total of about $12,650 more.

Consider if instead you waited until just past that 910-day mark and filed a Chapter 13 case then, and could “cram down” the car loan. Assume that your car is now worth $7,500, and again you owe $11,500. The loan is said to be secured to the extent of $7,500. The remaining $4,000 of the loan is not secured by anything. So the $7,500 secured portion would be paid through monthly payments in your Chapter 13 plan. The $4,000 unsecured portion is treated like the rest of your unsecured debts, which are usually paid if and only to the extent that you have extra money available to pay them.

Under cramdown, you pay the $7,500 secured portion at an interest rate which is often lower than your contract rate. Paying a reduced amount—$7,500 instead of $11,500—at a lower interest rate results in a lower monthly payment. That payment is often reduced substantially further by extending the repayment term further out than what the contract had provided, up to a maximum of five years (from the date of filing the Chapter 13 case).

In this example, assuming an interest rate of 5% and a repayment term of five years, the payment on the $7,500 would be less than $142 per month. The total remaining payments on the loan, with interest, would be about $8,492, in contrast to paying $12,650 under the contract. That is a savings of $4,158.

Note that under cramdown, even though the repayment term stretches the payments about two and a half years longer than under the contract, the amount of interest to be paid is often less. That’s both because the interest rate is often lower, and it’s being applied to a lower principal amount (here 5% interest instead of 8%, and $7,500 instead of $11,500).

So, by tactically holding off from filing a Chapter 13 case until after the 910-day period expires, in this example you would reduce the monthly payment from $425 to $141.50, and save more than $4,000 before owning the vehicle free and clear. 

 

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What Can I Do If I’m Behind on My Vehicle Loan?

Bankruptcy saves your vehicle from immediate repossession. Whether you choose to file under Chapter 7 or 13 depends in part on how strong of a medicine you need for dealing with the back payments.

My last blog focused on ways in which Chapter 7 and Chapter 13 bankruptcy each make it possible for you to keep your vehicle by keeping your vehicle lender satisfied.  But to be very practical, today let’s hone in on one very common scenario: you’ve fallen behind on your vehicle loan, but need to keep that vehicle. What are your options?

Saved by the Automatic Stay

As you probably already feel in your gut, you’ve got to accept right away that you are in a very precarious situation. Vehicle loans are very dangerous because of how quickly the collateral—your car or truck—can be repossessed. With a mortgage foreclosure you usually have a number of major warnings, stretching over months, sometimes over a year or more. Instead, with just about all vehicle loans, you get no warning. Once you’re in default—missed a monthly payment or let your insurance lapse—your vehicle could get repossessed at any time. Realistically, most repossessions do not happen until you’re about 2 months late. But that depends on your payment history, the overall aggressiveness of the creditor, and, frankly, how the repo manager happens to be feeling that day. If you’re not current, you’re in danger.  

Once a repossession happens, that does not always mean that your vehicle is gone for good. But in many situations that IS the practical result. To get a vehicle back after a repo usually takes serious money. Money you don’t likely have hanging around if you’re behind on your car payments.

And once the repo happens, thing’s often just get worse—your vehicle is sold at an auction, and you often end up owing thousands of dollars for the “deficiency balance,” the difference between what the vehicle was auctioned off for and the amount you owed on the loan (plus repo and sale costs). Next thing you know, you’re being sued for those thousands of dollars.

All that is preventable, IF you file either a Chapter 7 or Chapter 13 bankruptcy BEFORE the repossession. The “automatic stay”— a legal injunction against repossession—goes into effect instantaneously upon the filing of bankruptcy. Even if the repo man is already looking for your vehicle to repo, once you file that gets you off his list. At least for the moment.

Dealing with Missed Payments under Chapter 7

As stated in the last blog, most vehicle lenders play a “take it or leave it” game if you file a Chapter 7 case. If you want to keep the vehicle, you must bring the loan current quickly—usually within about two months after filing.  Unless your lender is one of the relatively few  that are more flexible, you need to figure out if not paying your other creditors is going to free up enough cash to catch up on your missed payments within that short time. If not, the lender will have the right to repossess your vehicle if you are not current the minute the Chapter 7 case is completed, usually about 3 months after it is filed. In fact, you may have even less time if the lender asks the bankruptcy court for permission to repossess earlier.  

Dealing with Missed Payments under Chapter 13

You have much more flexibility about missed payments under Chapter 13. In fact, you do not need to catch up on them at all.

There are two scenarios, alluded to in the last blog.

If your vehicle is worth at least as much as your loan balance OR if you entered into your vehicle loan two and a half years or less before filing the case, than you will have to pay the entire loan off within the 3-to-5-year Chapter 13 plan period. Depending on the amount of the loan balance, that may or may not mean a reduction in monthly payments. Sometimes it could even mean an increase in payments.

If your vehicle is worth less than your loan balance AND you entered into your vehicle loan more than two and a half years before filing the case, then you can reduce the total amount to be paid down to the value of the vehicle. With this so-called “cramdown,” you still must pay that reduced amount within the life of the Chapter 13 plan. And you may need to pay a portion of the remaining balance, primarily based on whether you have extra money in your budget to do so. But the savings in terms of both the monthly payments and the total amount to be paid are often huge.

Conclusion

Bankruptcy stops your vehicle from being repossessed, and gives you options for dealing with previously missed payments. Chapter 7 may work if you can pay off the entire arrearage fast enough. Otherwise you may need the extra help Chapter 13 provides. Or you might want to file Chapter 13 to take advantage of the “cramdown” option if that applies to you, after also weighing all the other considerations between Chapter 7 and 13.  

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Keeping Your Wheels in Bankruptcy

Under Chapter 7, you can pay your vehicle loan mostly by getting rid of all or most of your other debts. Under Chapter 13, you can pay your vehicle loan ahead of most of your other creditors.


Bankruptcy law is all about balancing the rights of debtors and creditors. When you file bankruptcy you gain a lot of leverage against your creditors. But exactly how much leverage depends on the kind of debt and certain crucial details about it. With a vehicle loan, you get much less leverage than with some other types of debts because the lender has a right to its collateral–your car or truck. But if you want to keep your vehicle, you can often use the lender’s rights over your collateral to your advantage.

That’s because bankruptcy is also about sorting out the rights of the creditors among themselves. So if you WANT to keep your vehicle, you are able to favor that vehicle lender over most of your other creditors.

Let’s see how this works under Chapter 7 and then under Chapter 13.

Favoring your vehicle loan in a Chapter 7 “straight bankruptcy”

Between you and the vehicle lender, your leverage is that you have the right to simply surrender your vehicle to the creditor and pay nothing. The bankruptcy discharges (writes off) any remaining debt. Usually the lender does not get paid enough from selling the vehicle to cover the full balance on the debt—especially after accounting for the costs of repossession and resale.  Rarely the vehicle is worth more than the loan balance, such as towards the very end of a loan term, when the balance is low and the vehicle has retained some value. But, most of the time a vehicle depreciates faster than the balance goes down. So the lender usually loses money on a surrender.

This means that sometimes we can use the threat of surrender to improve the vehicle loan’s terms, maybe even reduce the balance to an amount closer to the current fair market value of the vehicle.

But unfortunately, most major vehicle lenders don’t see it that way. They made a decision at some point that they make more money by requiring all their Chapter 7 customers to pay the full balance on the vehicle loans, and then take losses on those who aren’t willing to do that and instead surrender their vehicles. Talk with your attorney about whether your creditor is one which will require you to stick to the contract terms, or instead one who might be more flexible.

As between your vehicle lender and your other creditors, in a Chapter 7 case you will likely be able to discharge the debts of most or even all those other creditors. The vehicle lender has leverage—its lienholder rights against the vehicle that you want to keep—greater than most of your other creditors. With the exception of other creditors which have other collateral you want to keep, and those relatively few creditors whose debts aren’t discharged in bankruptcy, during and after filing the Chapter 7 case you will be able to focus all of your financial energy on paying the vehicle loan.

Favoring your vehicle loan in a Chapter 13 “payment plan”

Between you and the vehicle lender, your leverage is both lesser and greater under Chapter 13 than under Chapter 7.

You have less leverage in threatening surrender if your Chapter 13 plan is paying anything to your unsecured creditors. That’s because the vehicle lender would recoup from you at least some of its losses upon surrender, instead of none.

And if your vehicle loan is two and a half years old or less, if you want to keep the vehicle you must pay the full balance of the loan, regardless of the value of the vehicle compared to the loan balance.  

But you have more leverage in two ways. With any vehicle loan, including those two and a half years old or less, you do not have to cure any arrearage, and can change the monthly payment, as long as the balance is paid in full by the end of the case.

And if the loan is more than two and a half years old, you can do a “cramdown”—reduce the amount you pay to the fair market value of the vehicle, plus whatever percentage you’re paying to the pool of unsecured debt, if any.

As between your vehicle lender and your other creditors, in a Chapter 13 case if you want to keep the vehicle and you follow the above rules, most of your other creditors generally can’t object to how much you’re paying for the vehicle instead of to them. Other creditors secured by other collateral have their own rights to their collateral, and whatever payments arise from that. And “priority” creditors are generally entitled to be paid in full. And there are other rules you must follow in Chapter 13. But unless the vehicle you want to keep is unreasonably expensive, or is an unnecessary extra vehicle, you will be allowed to make the required payments so that you can keep it.

 

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Debts You Really Care About, and WANT to Pay

In bankruptcy, are you allowed to favor: 1) creditors with collateral, so that you can keep the collateral; 2) creditors toward whom you have special loyalty; and 3) creditors who have extraordinary leverage against you?

When clients first talk with me about filing bankruptcy, they are often very concerned about what will happen to debts that they want to keep paying. In fact sometimes people believe that bankruptcy is not a serious option for them because they are afraid of what will happen with these debts that are so important to them. As their legal counselor, my job is to respect and understand these fears.  Then I can make recommendations about how to best deal with these debts.

These special debts fall into three categories.

1. Debts You Care About Because of Crucial Collateral

Before getting to the point of seriously considering bankruptcy, you may have been doing everything possible to keep current on your home or vehicle. You may have made the decision that holding on to your home for the sake of your family is your absolutely highest priority. Or you may feel the same way toward your vehicle, because you need to be able to get to work and/or to keep your family or personal life sane.

Chapter 7 and Chapter 13 both have ways that you can help keep your home and vehicles. Sometimes these involve not paying other creditors so that you can pay the mortgage or vehicle loan. In other situations you may be able to keep your home and vehicle while paying significantly less to do so. Overall, bankruptcy usually allows you to focus your limited financial resources on these kinds of debts if they are your highest priority.

2. Debts You Care About Because of Moral Obligation

Many of my clients feel different levels of loyalty to different creditors. Some even feel guilty about feeling that way. But it is perfectly human to feel differently about a personal loan owed to a family member than about a credit card balance owed to a national bank. Or how you feel towards a medical debt owed directly to your long-time family doctor compared to how you feel towards a debt that is now at a second or third collection agency and you don’t even know which medical provider they are collecting for. 

If you feel an absolute moral obligation to pay a debt regardless whether or not you file bankruptcy, there are safe ways to do so and very dangerous ones. I’ll tell you about this in an upcoming blog. In any event, be sure you tell your attorney about this because it can effect whether you file a Chapter 7 or a Chapter 13 case, and sometimes also the timing of your filing.

3. Debts You Care About Because of Extra Creditor Powers

Although one of the most basic principles of bankruptcy law is that your creditors must be treated equally, the more accurate version of that principle is that legally equal creditors must be treated equally. And because the law is filled with legal distinctions among creditors, some debts are more dangerous than others, both inside and outside of bankruptcy. You may well have heard about or directly experienced the extraordinary collection powers of the taxing authorities, support enforcement agencies, or student loan creditors, for example. You may also be aware that some debts cannot or might not be written off in bankruptcy. Understandably you’re concerned what will happen with these debts if a bankruptcy won’t help you with them.

The reality is that usually a bankruptcy will help you with even the most aggressive creditors, even those whose debts will not be discharged. Almost always there are sensible ways to deal with these special creditors. Sometimes it involves using the bankruptcy system’s own substantial powers to gain important advantages over these creditors. Sometimes it involves reasonable payment arrangements after completing a Chapter 7 case, when you have no other debts. Sometimes it involves directly favoring these creditors by paying them before or instead of other creditors in a Chapter 13 case, while under continuous protection from the bankruptcy court. Overall, usually bankruptcy provides you a manageable way to handle these legally favored creditors.

The next few blogs will give you specific information on how bankruptcy can help you keep valuable collateral, satisfy your moral obligations, and deal with your most aggressive creditors.

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Stronger Medicine for Vehicle Loan through Chapter 13

If you are behind on your car or truck loan and a Chapter 7 case will not help you enough, file a Chapter 13 case instead so that you can keep that vehicle.


I laid out your options with vehicle loans under Chapter 7 in my last blog:

1. Surrender the vehicle and discharge (write off) any “deficiency balance”–the often large amount that outside of bankruptcy you would still owe after the creditor sells off your vehicle for less than the loan balance. The vehicle’s gone but so is all your debt.

2. Keep the vehicle and maintain the regular payments if you’re current. Or if you are behind, pay the full amount of back payments so that you are current within a month or two of filing the bankruptcy case. In both of these situations, you will almost certainly be required to sign a “reaffirmation agreement” renewing your full liability on the vehicle loan.

But what if you absolutely must keep your vehicle, and simply won’t be able to scrape up the money to catch up within a month or two after filing?  Some creditors may be somewhat more flexible—giving more time or even putting missed payments “at the end of the loan.” But these situations are relatively rare, and may not help you enough. Then it’s time to consider the Chapter 13 option with your attorney.

Keep the Vehicle through a Cram-Down

If you meet one straightforward condition, Chapter 13 gives you some tough medicine indeed, way beyond just buying you more time to pay the missed payments. Through the so-called cram-down, you get to re-write the loan—disregarding any missed payments. The balance on the loan is reduced to—crammed down to–the fair market value of the vehicle (assuming that’s less than the loan balance). Sometimes the interest rate can be reduced and often the loan term can be extended. The combined effect of all this is usually to reduce the monthly payment amount, often significantly. The amount of total savings depends on the details of your case, but most of the time you get the vehicle free and clear at the end of the Chapter 13 case after paying significantly less than you would have otherwise.

So what’s the condition you have to meet to be able to do this cram-down?  The vehicle loan must have been entered into more than 910 days (about two and a half years) before filing your Chapter 13 case. If your vehicle loan is not at least that old, no cram down.

Keep the Vehicle without a Cram-Down

You may not qualify for a cram-down because your loan is not old enough, or a cram-down could simply not do any good because your vehicle is worth more than the loan balance. But Chapter 13 can still be helpful, by not being obligated to catch up quickly on the back payments. And in the right circumstances, your monthly vehicle loan payments can be reduced, giving you more money for living expenses or to pay other important creditors.

Surrender the Vehicle

To be clear, although Chapter 13 gives you some big advantages if you are keeping your vehicle, if you don’t need that vehicle you can surrender it just as you can in a Chapter 7 case.

The difference is that instead of the “deficiency balance” being discharged without the creditor receiving anything as in the vast majority of Chapter 7 cases, under Chapter 13 that “deficiency balance” is added to the rest of the pool of general unsecured creditors.

What’s the effect of that? In most cases it doesn’t cost you anything, nothing more than what you would have paid to complete your Chapter 13 case without that “deficiency balance” included. Why? Because in most Chapter 13 plans, you are required to pay a certain amount based on your budget, or a certain minimum amount to the unsecured creditors based on assets you are protecting. So in those cases having an extra chunk of unsecured debt merely shifts how the creditors divide up among themselves the same amount of your money.

But there are some uncommon situations in which adding that “deficiency balance” to your unsecured debts would increase the amount you would have to pay into your Chapter 13 plan. Discuss whether any of those apply to you before deciding whether surrendering your vehicle in a Chapter 13 is in your best interest.

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Options with Your Vehicle Loan under Chapter 7

Your car or truck loan may be the most important debt you have. Chapter 7 puts you in the driver seat for dealing with this debt.

As I said in the last blog, when you think about secured debts—those tied to collateral like a vehicle—it helps to look at these kinds of debts as two deals in one. You made a commitment to repay some money lent to you, and then agreed to back up that commitment by giving the creditor certain rights to your collateral.

The first deal—to repay the money—can almost always be discharged (legally erased) in bankruptcy. But the second deal—the rights you gave up in the collateral, here a lien on the vehicle title—is not affected by your bankruptcy. So, you can wipe out the debt, but the creditor remains on the title and can get your vehicle. Your options in Chapter 7, and the creditor’s, are tied to these two realities.

Keep or Surrender?

As long as you file your Chapter 7 case before your vehicle gets repossessed, the ball starts in your court about whether to keep or surrender it.

Surrender the Vehicle

In most situations, if you want to surrender the vehicle, then doing so in a Chapter 7 bankruptcy is the place to do it. That’s because in the vast majority of vehicle loans, you would still owe part of the debt after the surrender—the so-called “deficiency balance”—often a shockingly large amount. That’s because you usually owe more than the vehicle is worth, but also because the contract allows the creditor to charge you all of its costs of repossession and resale. Surrendering your vehicle during your Chapter 7 case allows you to discharge the entire debt and not be on the hook for any of those costs.

To be thorough, there is a theoretical possibility that the vehicle loan creditor could challenge your discharge of the “deficiency balance,” based on fraud or misrepresentation when you entered into the loan. These are rare, and especially so with vehicle loans.

Keep It

Whether or not you are current on the loan payments does not matter if you are surrendering the vehicle. But if you want to keep it, whether you are current, and if not how far behind you are, can make all the difference.

Keep the Vehicle When Current

As you can guess, it’s simplest if you are current. Then you would just keep making the payments on time, and would usually sign a “reaffirmation agreement” to exclude the vehicle loan from the discharge of debts at the end of your Chapter 7 case.

Most conventional vehicle loan creditors insist on you signing a reaffirmation agreement, at the full balance of the loan—it’s a take-it-or-leave-it proposition. If you want to keep the car or truck, you need to “reaffirm” the original debt, even if by this time the debt is larger than the value of the vehicle. This can be dangerous because if you fail to keep up the payments later, you could still end up with a repossession and a hefty remaining balance owed—AFTER having passed up on the opportunity to discharge this debt earlier in your bankruptcy case. So be sure to understand this clearly before reaffirming, especially if the balance is already more than the vehicle is worth.

Some creditors—more likely smaller, local lenders—may be willing to allow you to reaffirm for less than the full balance, so that the creditor avoids taking an even bigger loss if you surrender the vehicle. Talk to your attorney whether this is a possibility in your situation.

Keep the Vehicle When Not Current

If you are not current on the vehicle loan at the time your Chapter 7 case is filed, most of the time you will have to get current quickly to be able to keep the vehicle—usually within a month or two. That’s in part because for a “reaffirmation agreement” to be enforceable, it must be filed at the bankruptcy court before the discharge order is entered. Since that happens usually about three months after the case is filed, the creditor needs to decide quickly whether you will be able to catch up on the payments and reaffirm the debt.

Again, certain vehicle creditors may be more flexible, perhaps letting you skip some earlier missed payments, or giving you more time to cure the arrearage. Your attorney will know whether these may apply to your creditor.

Stronger Medicine through Chapter 13

But what if you are behind on your payments more than you can catch up within a month or two after filing? If you have decided that you really need to keep the car or truck, discuss the Chapter 13 option with your attorney. Depending on various factors, you may not only have more time to pay the arrearage, you may also reduce your monthly payments, the interest rate, and the total amount to be paid on the debt. The next blog will get into this Chapter 13 option.

 

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Debts with Collateral–THE Fixation of Many Bankruptcies

Your vehicle loan, home mortgage, account at the appliance or electronics store, and maybe a debt that’s resulted in a judgment lien—these debts with collateral are the ones that grab the most attention during a bankruptcy case. And that includes the attention of the creditors, very interested in “their” collateral.

 

General unsecured debts, which I talked about in the last two blogs, are pleasantly boring in most bankruptcy cases. In a Chapter 7 case, they are generally discharged (legally written off) without any opposition by the creditors, who usually get nothing. And in a Chapter 13 case, general unsecured debts are often just paid whatever money is left over after the secured and priority debts, and trustee and attorney fees, are paid. Nice and boring. That’s because the creditors don’t have much to fight about.

But with secured debts—debts with collateral—both sides have something to fight about—the collateral. The creditors know that the vehicle or house or other collateral is the only thing backing up the debt you owe to them, so they can get quite pushy about protecting that collateral.

The next few blogs will be about how you use either Chapter 7 or Chapter 13 to deal with the most important kinds of secured debts. Today we start with a few basic points that apply to just about all secured debts.

Two Deals in One

It helps to look at any secured debt as two interrelated agreements between you and the creditor. First, the creditor agreed to give you money or credit in return for your promise to repay it on certain terms. Second, you received rights to—and usually title in—the collateral, with you in return agreeing that the creditor can take that collateral if you don’t comply with your first agreement to repay the money.

Generally, bankruptcy will absolve you of that first agreement—your promise to pay—but the creditors’ rights to collateral survive bankruptcy (except in certain rare situations we will highlight later). Your ability to discharge the debt gives you some options, and can sometimes give you a certain amount of leverage. But the creditors’ rights about the collateral give them certain options and leverage, too. You’ll see how this tug-of-war plays out with vehicle and home loans, and few other important secured debts.

Value of Collateral

In that tug-of-war between your power to discharge the debt and a creditor’s rights to the collateral, how much the collateral is worth as compared to the amount of the debt becomes very important. If the collateral is worth a lot more than the amount of the debt, the creditor is said to be well-secured. It has a much better chance of having the debt be paid in full. You’ll really want to pay off the relatively small debt to get the relatively expensive collateral free and clear of that debt. Or if you didn’t make the payments the creditor will get the collateral and sell it for at least as much as the debt.

If the collateral is worth less than the amount of the debt, the creditor is said to be undersecured. It is much less likely to have this debt paid in full. You’ll be less likely to pay a debt only to get collateral worth less than what you’re paying. And if you surrender the collateral the creditor will sell it for less than the debt amount.

Depreciation of Collateral, and Interest

With the value of the collateral being such an important consideration, the loss of value through depreciation is something that creditors care about, a concern which the bankruptcy court respects. Also, in most situations secured creditors are entitled to interest. So, you’ll see that in fights with secured creditors, this issue about the combined amount of monthly depreciation and interest often comes into play.

Insurance

Virtually every agreement with a secured creditor—certainly those involving vehicles and homes—requires that you carry insurance on the collateral. If the collateral is damaged or destroyed, this insurance usually pays the debt on the collateral before it pays you anything. And, if you fail to get the required insurance—or sometimes even if you simply don’t inform the creditor about having the insurance—the creditor itself is entitled to buy “force-placed” insurance to protect only its interest in the collateral, AND charge you the often outrageously high premium.

 

With these points in mind, the next blog will tell you your options with your vehicle loan under Chapter 7.

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Keeping the Vehicle You Owe On in a Chapter 7 Bankruptcy

Chapter 7 is the take-it-or-leave-it bankruptcy when it comes to your vehicle with a loan against it. In most cases you either keep on making the payments or you surrender the vehicle, nothing much in between.

To be clear I’m talking here about a vehicle that you owe on, with the lender as a lienholder on your vehicle title, and with no more equity (value beyond the debt) than is covered by your available vehicle exemption. In other words, this is not a vehicle that your Chapter 7 trustee is going to be interested in, either because it has no equity—it’s worth less than the debt against it—or the amount of equity is protected by the exemption.

But if your trustee wont’ be interested, your vehicle creditor will be very interested, in the vehicle and in your bankruptcy.

So back to the take-it-or-leave-it part. Here are the two straightforward choices.

First, even f you don’t want to or need to keep your vehicle, you can surrender it to your creditor after your bankruptcy is filed. (Or you can surrender it before you file, but that gets risky—be sure you have talked to your bankruptcy attorney and have a clear game plan beforehand.) You likely know that if you just surrendered your vehicle without a bankruptcy, you’ll very likely owe and be sued for the “deficiency balance”—the amount you would owe after your vehicle is sold, its sale price is credited to your account, and all the repo and other costs are added. (You can usually count on that deficiency balance to be shockingly high.) The bankruptcy will write off that deficiency balance, which could well be one of the reasons you decided to file bankruptcy.

Second, if you want to keep your vehicle, in most cases you have to be current on your loan, or quite quickly get current. You will almost for sure be required to sign a reaffirmation agreement legally excluding the vehicle loan from the discharge (the legal write-off) of the rest of your debts. And you have to sign that reaffirmation agreement and get it filed at the bankruptcy court within quite a short period of time—usually within 60 days after your bankruptcy hearing. Then you have to stay current if you want to keep the car, just as if you had not filed a bankruptcy. And also just as if you had not filed bankruptcy, if that vehicle later gets repossessed or surrendered, you could very well be hit with a deficiency balance.

When I say take-it-or-leave-it, I mean there usually aren’t any other more flexible options. Almost always—especially with conventional, national vehicle loan creditors—you are stuck with the terms of your original loan contract—no reducing the balance of the loan or the interest rate. If you’re behind, almost always you must pay up the arrearage and be current within a month or two. There can be exceptions, especially with local finance companies and other smaller players who would rather minimize their losses by being flexible. So be sure to ask your attorney whether your vehicle creditor has that kind of history. And if you do need more flexibility—if you must hang onto your vehicle, and owe more than it is worth, and you can’t afford the payments—ask about Chapter 13 as a possible solution to your dilemma.

In general, “straight bankruptcy”—Chapter 7—can be the best way to go if your vehicle situation is pretty straightforward: you either want to surrender a vehicle, or else you want to hang onto it and are current or can get current within a month or two of your bankruptcy filing.


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